deconstruction

In the late 80's a new breed of independent thinking and largely Japanese designers came into force. They were influenced by the minimalism of their own art and culture, and other philosophies which included the literary philosophy of deconstruction by Jacques Derrida. I've tried reading up on the theory of deconstruction, errrm but I'm afraid it's going to take me a while before I get the hang of it... its complicated, understatement. But the base is- to undo/deconstruct/ reconsider/analyse the true meaning of a text which might be repressed otherwise because of the vastness of the language. I suppose it opposes diplomacy in language and stresses on calling a spade a spade, but then again i might be over simplifying the concept.

The designers- Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo (Commes Des garcons), Issey Miyake and the non Japanese- Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Maison Martin Margiela largely pioneered the fashion revolution and the love for black.

Ann Demeulemeester

Rei Kawakubo for Commes des Garcons

Dries Van Noten

Maison Martin Margiela

Yohji Yamamoto

These designers delved into history, ecology, physical and cultural changes, progressive thoughts and portrayed their conclusions or emotions in the process of garment construction. They wanted seams and garment components that were previously invisible to be seen.

Though deconstruction early on was largely unfinished and rough around the edges, a newer concept like reconstructed deconstruction has the output looking more whole and finished.

p.s. I doubt one brief post would suffice on this topic. Will probably add more later once I can study in deeper detail.